Kamis, 14 Februari 2013

Covering All Bases

Achieving the perfect base is the key to a flawless makeup. Remember a good quality primer will have helped smooth out tiny imperfections in your skin such as fine lines and open pores so that your foundation will now glide on and give you a longer lasting finish.

If the skins natural oils interact with your foundation during the day you can find your base gets darker looking. The barrier created by the primer helps ensure that your foundation stays colour true all day long.

We wear a foundation to even out skin tone and hiding imperfections. Used correctly they will also warm up the complexion and add depth to the face.

The trick is to enhance your complexion not cover it. Foundation should feel lightweight and not heavy and caked onto the skin otherwise it will appear mask like and ageing.

The type of foundations you  can use include - liquid, cream, compact, stick or mineral  and all depends on personal taste,  however the wrong one for your skin type can change the entire look of your makeup.

There are several things to take into consideration when choosing your foundation:

What type of skin do you have?
Keep it simple & choose either Normal/Dry or  Normal/Oily or Combination

What texture do you prefer?
How do you want your foundation to to look and feel?

Choosing the correct colour to match your skin tone
In general the rule is that a warm skin tones suits a yellow based shade while cool tones suit pink based. The easiest way to find the right foundation for you skin is by looking at the colour of skin across your decolletage. Your face and body should always match. Sometimes this means using a foundation 2-3 shades darker than your face.

The shade that blends with your skin tone across your chest/collarbones is the right one to achieve a natural, healthy glow to the skin. The skin tone around the neck and under the jawline is always lighter than your face and decolletage and matching your foundation to your jawline will result in an unnatural colour match up making your face appear lighter.

If your face and decolletage match up in tone then simply choose a colour that blends into your skin tone by applying several different shades across the cheek area, the perfect shade will merge with your skin without needing too much blending.

ARTDECO Tutorial
(1) The easiest way to find the right foundation for your skin is by trying three shades that are similar to your skin tone together on your cheek. The shade that blends with your skin is the right one.

For perfect results, apply your liquid foundation with the Make-up brush. Pour a little of your chosen foundation onto the back of your hand. Gently dip the tip of the brush in the foundation and start to apply in a gentle circling movement, working from the cheek area up to the facial contours.

To help it last a little longer, finish with Compact or Loose Powder. Take up the pigments with the brush and set your foundation, working gently from the top down.
If you can't find the perfect shade, custom blend your own. Choose 2 foundations, one slightly darker and one lighter than your complexion and then you can mix the perfect blend all year round.


Foundation overview
Liquid for Sensitive, Dry & dehydrated skin for a sheer and minimal coverage. Ideal for a clear, blemish free skin. Can be water and oil based.

Cream for Normal, Dry & Sensitive skin for buildable coverage medium to strong.

Cream to powder for Normal, Oily and Combination Skin for  buildable coverage light to strong.

Compact powder for Normal, Combination & Oily skin  for buildable coverage medium to strong.

Powder based mineral foundations for velvety finish on all skin types.

Foundation textures

Sheer - Minimal coverage. A tinted moisturizer is great for a normal or oliy skin. Tap or press rather than rubbing the product in or it will disappear into the skin.

Soft/Dewy/Creamy -  Light to medium coverage. Creamy foundation provides maximum coverage on a drier skin.

Luminous - Creamy with higher shine from shimmery pigment, they  are a great way to brighten dull looking skin as they reflect light, which will diminish any imperfections. Best suited to a dry or dehydrated skin as they are moisturizing. A very popular look these days and on the catwalk.

Velvety - Semi matt powder finish with a velvety sheen.

Heavy -  Can be both creamy or matte. A creamy stick will conceal blemishes and redness around the nose.

Matt - Skin has no shine and is quite powdered. Can look flat and cakey on the wrong skin type.

Different formulations are best suited to different skin types.

Normal skin can use any formula, to even out skin tone and create a smooth base for a barely there coverage.

Combination skin usually has a slightly oilier t-zone and normal skin everywhere else. A cream to powder formulation works best as it is lightweight and long wearing that combines the great coverage of a liquid with the shine controlling benefits of a powder. The other option would be a liquid formulation combined with a finishing powder  for managing a shiny t-zone with out a mask like finish.

Dry skin needs a glow so use a moisturizing liquid or cream foundation that is hydrating and moisture binding. These formulations give your skin a satin feeling with the moisturizing foundation and replenish dehydrated skins, they often calm redness and inflammation and protect skin cells and tissue from environmental  damage. Your skin is left with a healthy dewy glow providing a medium to high buildable coverage. Avoid powder formulations as they can make the skin look flaky and age the skin.

Mature skin is often dehydrated and can appear dull looking and requires a velvety, light reflective cream foundation to smooth the complexion and reflect light to make tired skin look fresh and vibrant again. These formulations often contain vitamin E, hylaronic acid and other antioxidants which give moisture and plump the skin from underneath for a medium to high buildable coverage.

Oliy skin needs an oil free, lightly mattifying, long wearing formula to achieve a luminous but shine free complexion. Choose a water based formulation that is non comedogenic (doesn't clog your pores and cause blemishes). An oil free liquid or powder formulation will look the most natural for a medium coverage  and keep skin looking fresh all day.

Blemish prone skin should be evened out with a sheer formulation. A thick foundation will only highlight the blemishes and make them worse. If your skin is prone to break outs it's best to use oil free products. Mineral formulations work extremely well for natural coverage with a lightweight feel and will not clog the skin.

Mineral Magic - All skin types can use the Mineral foundation formulations, even the most sensitive as they won't  irritate allergy prone skin and  will visibly improve the quality of your skin and provides great coverage. More than a trend Mineral makeup is here to stay with most companies expanding into a full mineral range.

Mineral formulations are Talc, Oil, Fragrance and Preservative free with natural SPF'S that  not only look natural but feel weightless on the skin. Natural minerals in the formulations can calm redness, protect skin tissue and maintain moisture levels as well as control oiliness. Mineral formulations provide a silky, light reflective, soft focus finish giving skin a luminous glow. Mineral Foundations are now available as a loose powder, compact powder and liquid formulation. Powder formulations will give you that velvety, matte finish and the liquid a more luminous dewy finish.

To add luminosity to your skin use a foundation with shimmer particles which give a soft focus effect, reflects light to make tired skin look fresh and vibrant or add a shimmery cream, soft gold or deep bronze luminizer liquid to your base for an all over glow. The colour chosen should be the same as your skin tone or a few shades lighter.


For perfect results, apply liquid and cream foundations with a foundation brush.

Pour a little product onto the back of your clean, sanitized hand or mixing palette.
Using the tip of the brush dip into the foundation and start to apply from the nose and cheek area up to the facial contours.
Always start at the centre of the face, since that is where we usually need more coverage, and blend outwards and downwards towards the chin. Use a brush to apply full coverage foundation (half to a shade lighter under the eyes and t-zone and a fine sweep above the jaw line).
Foundation should blend out to a seamless finish along the hairline. Blend well across the forehead and under the jawline.
Wipe excess product from the brush and lightly buff the face with the foundation brush to smooth the colour.
Dust a loose powder over the top. The fine, matte texture will keep skin looking sheer but polished.
You can sweep a mineral powder in a slightly warmer or deeper shade than your skin tone on your temples, cheekbones and chin. This created extra dimension and additional texture.
Buff your entire face with a large powder brush.

Some formulations like cream to powder or compact powder formulations can be applied with sponges. Latex sponges are disposable, and therefore ideal for even and hygienic application. Be aware sponges do absorb a lot of product and can be expensive. Invest in a suitable foundation brush.

If your foundation contains a high level of SPF be aware to not use this product too close to the eye area as it may irritate the sensitive eye area and cause watering and a stinging sensation. If  you require further coverage around the eye area use the correct concealing product and disguise any imperfections. Foundations containing high SPF's are not ideal for wedding/photographic makeup as they can make the face appear paler than they are.

Never buy a foundation without checking it first in the daylight. Natural daylight is the best for applying makeup to check for mistakes, hard lines and creating perfectly blended results.

Hydrasilk Foundation

Rich Treatment

High Performance Lifting

Double Finish

SPF 30+ Compact Foundation

To achieve the optimum, shine free finish and ensure longevity, apply a loose powder with a professional powder brush for a fine daytime layering or use a powder puff or makeup round to press and roll for a more intense and long lasting matt finish, ideal for an oilier skin type. Lightly dust the powder down the face.

Pressed and loose powders are essentially the same, pressed powder is simply loose powder compressed into a compact. Loose powder will last longer and gives you more coverage because it's fluffier and adheres more easily to the brush or powder brush. Pressed powder is ideal for touching up during the day.

Silk Touch

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